Karpathos Travel Guide: plan your trip

Karpathos at a glance

Where is Karpathos?

Karpathos is one of the larger islands of the Dodecanese, in the southeast of Greece. It sits between Crete and Rhodes, and the small island of Kasos is right next to it. The south is where most people stay. That’s where you find the airport, the capital Pigadia and beach villages like Amoopi, Afiartis and Arkassa. The north is mountainous and much more remote, with Olympos and the port of Diafani.

Karpathos isn’t a mass tourism island. You won’t find big clubs, neon lights or a busy boulevard. Nightlife means a few bars and two nightclubs in Pigadia. If that’s what you’re looking for, this probably isn’t your island. If you want beaches, nature and good food without the crowds, it is.

How to get to Karpathos

Karpathos has its own airport. From May to October there are direct flights from several European airports, for example from Amsterdam with TUI and Transavia (about 3.5 hours). Outside the season, or if there’s no direct flight from your airport, you can fly via Athens or Rhodes and take a domestic flight to Karpathos.

You can also come by ferry from Piraeus (Athens), Crete or Rhodes. From Piraeus it’s a long trip, so plan for a full day or night. The ferry is a good option if you want to bring your own car or if you’re combining Karpathos with other islands.

Best time to visit Karpathos

For hiking and nature, go in April, May or October. Temperatures are around 20 to 25 degrees and in spring everything is green and in bloom. For sun and beach, June to September is best. It hardly rains and the sea is warm. For windsurfing, July and August give you the best chance of good wind. Our favorite months are June and September.

Average weather per month:

One thing to know about Easter: many restaurants only open after Greek Orthodox Easter. When Easter falls late, the island is noticeably quieter until mid-May. You’ll always find somewhere to eat, there’s just less choice.

The meltemi wind

In July and August the meltemi blows, a strong north wind. You feel it most in Afiartis and Arkassa. The breeze makes the heat easier to handle, and it’s why Afiartis is one of the most popular windsurf spots in Europe. Sheltered bays like Amoopi and Kyra Panagia get much less wind, so they can get really hot. Don’t like wind? Pick a place on the east coast.

Where to stay on Karpathos

Which village suits you depends on what you want from your holiday. These are the main options.

Pigadia

The capital and the most lively place on the island. Lots of restaurants, shops, a town beach and the central bus station. Practical if you don’t rent a car, and the best choice if you travel outside the high season, because most places stay open here.

Amoopi

A beach village on the east coast with several small bays and a relaxed atmosphere. Sheltered from the meltemi, so warmer and calmer than the west coast. Popular with families and couples.

Afiartis

Quiet and sporty, close to the airport. This is the windsurf area of Karpathos. Afiartis also has sheltered bays, so you can still enjoy the beach on windy days.

Arkassa

A quiet village on the west coast with traditional restaurants and beautiful sunsets. Agios Nikolaos beach is close by.

Finiki

A small fishing village just north of Arkassa. Quiet and unspoiled, and the best place on the island for fresh fish.

Lefkos

On the west coast, with several beaches in one village. Lefkos has a nice balance: less wind than the south and less extreme heat than some bays on the east coast.

Kyra Panagia

A small beach resort built around one of the most photographed beaches on the island. You stay a few steps from the sea, but it can get very hot here in summer.

Olympos

Traditional and remote, high up in the north. Staying here is special, but for beach days you’ll need to drive quite a bit. Most people visit Olympos on a day trip.

Getting around Karpathos

If you want to see the island properly, rent a car. Karpathos is big, and many beaches and villages are hard to reach without one. There are plenty of rental companies, also at the airport. You can also rent a scooter or a quad.

There is a public bus (KTEL) connecting Pigadia with several villages and beaches. The routes and prices are the same every year, and a new timetable comes out each season, usually around mid-May. Taxis are available too, but they’re not cheap.

Best beaches on Karpathos

Karpathos has a lot of beaches, from sandy bays to small pebble coves. A few you shouldn’t miss:

• Apella on the east coast, often named one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece
• Kyra Panagia, a small bay with turquoise water and the church behind it
• Achata, a pebble beach between high rocks
• Amoopi, several calm bays, good for kids and snorkeling
• Lefkos, sandy beaches on the west coast
• Agios Nikolaos in Arkassa, a sandy beach that’s also nice in the evening
• Christou Pigadi in Afiartis, one of the sheltered bays in the windsurf area
• Diakoftis, white sand and shallow water, right behind the airport
• Kato Lako, a quiet beach that’s harder to reach

In spring and autumn I pick beaches on the east side, like Kyra Panagia and Amoopi, because it’s warmer there.

Things to do on Karpathos

Visit Olympos

Olympos is one of the most traditional villages in Greece. It’s built against the mountain in the north, and some older women still wear traditional clothes. Go early in the day, before the tour buses arrive.

Take a boat trip to Saria

Saria is a small uninhabited island just north of Karpathos and part of a Natura 2000 area. You go there by boat from Diafani. It’s one of the best day trips on the island.

Day trip to Kasos

Kasos is the small island right next to Karpathos. Take the boat over for a day and you’ll see a completely different side of the Dodecanese.

Hiking

Spring is the best time for hiking on Karpathos. There are routes all over the island, from easy coastal walks to a climb to Profitis Ilias. The guide includes five hikes.

Windsurfing and water sports

Afiartis is the place for windsurfing and kitesurfing. Snorkeling is great in the calm bays on the east coast. Don’t expect parasailing though.

Mountain villages

Menetes, Volada, Othos, Aperi, Spoa and Mesochori are worth a stop on a road trip. It’s cooler up there, and in April and May noticeably fresher than on the coast.

Food and drinks on Karpathos

Eating out is a big part of a holiday here. Most places are family-run tavernas with Greek food and fresh fish. Try makarounes, the handmade pasta of Karpathos with fried onions and local cheese. Finiki is the village for fish, Arkassa mainly has traditional restaurants and Pigadia has the most choice along the harbor. Our favorite places to eat, from breakfast to cocktails, are in the guide.

Frequently asked questions about Karpathos